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Archive for the ‘chanterelles’ Category
Monday, January 28th, 2013
Friday began just as it did last year. With the highly anticipated arrival of Jose Andres to his cooking demonstration at 10am. We just had a few bites of fruit for breakfast knowing we would be eating for hours. This may have been a slight mistake since the first thing Jose served was a drink. I’m getting ahead of myself again though.
Everyone gathered around the demonstration tent speculating on how Jose would arrive. Last year he emerged from the ocean in scuba gear holding two live lobsters. He had to outdo himself this year. He did! He came in on a water jetpack….a toy seemingly straight out of Hammacher Schlemmer magazine. Completely useless and ridiculous but futuristically awesome.

He shed the helmet and gear and put on a chef’s coat over his wet clothes and got to work! There was a freak storm that came through Grand Cayman on Friday that brought higher than usual tides so the surf was coming right up to the tents. They set the paella pans up on fires under the tents rather than out in the sun further down the beach. That worked out, I was sweltering last year and I thought the sous chefs were going to collapse from the heat!
  
He got the paella started with a lot of olive oil and chicken, browned all that up nicely, added squid, green beans, mushrooms (chanterelles!), chicken stock, saffron and most importantly SPANISH rice.
While he’s got his sous chefs manning the fires along with help from an audience volunteer, Jose gets to work on a cocktail. This one has wine and whiskey….it’s 10am!! To be more precise it has lemon juice, simple syrup, brown sugar, whisky and ice in a shaker. That goes into a glass and then you pour red wine in over a spoon so that it layers. It was quite tasty! And made for a bit of a blurry morning.
  
He keeps running around like a maniac barking orders for MORE OIL! MORE LIQUID! LESS FIRE! MOVE THIS! DO THAT! It was hectic and fun but I would not want to be his sous chef!

The end result was fantastic though. The key? Put the rice in, even it out in a completely level pan and then Don’t Touch! Sixteen minutes of staring at the bubbling pan. It had a roasty-toasty flavor that was so rich. The chanterelles were incredibly flavorful.

We grabbed our paella and ran off to catch our shuttle to eat with David Kinch of our local Manresa fame. Yes, we traveled half way around the world to eat food from a chef that lives in our hometown. Don’t judge!

We hopped in the shuttle bus and drove the 20 minutes to The Brasserie where David was taking over the kitchen for the afternoon. We chatted with David a bit when we got there but of course he had a few things to do! So we went out into the garden and sipped some lovely Justin Vineyards Sauv Blanc and began enjoying the appetizers.
First to waltz by us was the Garden Callaloo and Cucumber soup with Grated Coconut. A little shooter of refreshing yum. The next was a rich bite of Braised Oxtail with Java Apple and Marcona Almond on a Blue Corn Pancake. Not light, not refreshing, just rich, lick-your-fingers goodness.
  
We had a simple bite of a local tomato with basil and sea salt. A wonderful treat to get in January! I had to skip the Tuna Crudo with Pepper Escabeche and Garden Ackee. The peppers were right out for me but hubby said it was great! The dish we had to guiltily confess to eating to our son was the Cayman Turtle Stew on a Garden Breadfruit Chip. I’ve never eaten turtle. They have turtle farms in the Caymans just like we have trout or oyster farms. They are raised for food. And DAMN they’re good! It tasted like slow braised pork. I got over the guilt pretty quickly!
  
We were instructed to mosey inside and find a seat for the next round of food. David came out and told everyone about his experience with the local fare and also about Manresa and what it’s like with its partnership with Love Apple Farms. He stepped up and gave a great representation of his food and talent, that’s for sure. I think he’ll be getting people from this lunch coming out to Las Gatos. We sat at the same table as Joe, the owner of the wineries being featured at lunch, Justin and Landmark Vineyards. He got up and described their style and location (Paso Robles and Sonoma) and we continue on to the first sit-down course: Island Gungo Peas with Snapper and an emulsion of Seville orange, pimento and lime leaf. I didn’t leave a speck of anything on my plate. It was wonderful. The gungo peas aren’t like sweet peas, they’re, well, not sweet. They’re more bean-like in flavor but they’re round. It was really interesting to try all these new island flavors.

The Wahoo and Conch marinated with fennel and tangerine was another plate licked clean. I can’t get enough of the caribbean wahoo. I know it’s technically the same fish as Ono but it’s not even close in texture and flavor. Wahoo is worlds better! I was worried about the dessert because it was a coconut cate with passionfruit and guava sorbet. Surprisingly, the coconut cake was not coconut-y. I loved it! The guava sorbet on the other hand I couldn’t eat. On our honeymoon in 1999 we went hiking in Hawaii just after guava season which meant there were rotting guavas everywhere. It’s been over 13 years and I still can’t stand guava. Scarred for life. The rest of the dessert was spot on though.
I’m really glad David was asked to the Cookout. He really showed off his talent beautifully and I hope people fly out to Manresa to try it out. I know he worked like mad down there to make sure everything came out the way he wanted it and it showed.
We shuttled back to the hotel to pick our son up from the afternoon camp and spent the rest of the day in the ocean! Rough life.
Read about Thursday and Saturday!
Posted in chanterelles, decadence, eric ripert, flavor, food, gardening, photos, restaurant, seasonal menu, snapper, table dance, tasting menu, tomatoes, wine | No Comments »
Wednesday, November 28th, 2012
This year’s hardcore adventures were a little more low key than usual. My husband got in a motorcycle accident at the end of September and, although tremendously lucky, severely injured his left foot and, after 9 weeks, still isn’t walking on it.
So, foraging fell on to me and our 8 year old. Hubby stayed in the car with the walkie talkie to alert us if rangers came…none did. So, we didn’t cover as much territory as usual or stay out as long but we found a couple of porcini and about five pounds of chanterelles.
The other task that isn’t usually mine was the charcoal grill. I am the master of our gas grill but fire building is not one of my skills. I managed to get the fire lit (which was a surprise, I thought it was out but it smoldered to life). Still, the porcini didn’t get to the crispy state I like and the chanterelles took FOREVER.
The next night when I cooked the chanterelles down on the stove top and put them on top of NY steak, now that was how I know how to cook!
Posted in chanterelles, dinner, food, hardcore, porcinis | No Comments »
Thursday, February 2nd, 2012
Posted in chanterelles, cumin, dinner, flavor, food, hardcore, mushrooms, organic, photos, seasonal menu, table dance, wine | No Comments »
Sunday, January 10th, 2010
 This was not a planned mushroom hunt. I went on a hike with my son’s kindergarten class and stumbled upon a nice little patch of chanterelles. I told the teachers I’d catch up and piled the shroomies into my sweatshirt!

I made the lovely salad I’d made at Thanksgiving and the “To Die For” meal in December. I tossed the chanterelles in olive oil.

Grilled them until nice and brown.
Tossed the salad with shallot vinaigrette. Topped that with green lentils cooked in chicken stock. And the lovely surprise chanterelles on top. Oh, and bacon.
Posted in bacon, chanterelles, dinner, hardcore, lentils, recipe, seasonal menu, self pleasuring | No Comments »
Monday, December 7th, 2009
December is a big birthday month: my dad, my father-in-law, and my mother-in-law all have birthdays close together. Well, this year was the big 80th for my father-in-law so we wanted to have a large to-do to celebrate. I offered to cook and outdo myself in every dish I could. I think I succeeded. I also played dress-up and bought myself a chef’s jacket with “Chantrelle – FoodPorn.com” on it…That was fun to wear!! The recipes were designed to serve 20. It turns out I over estimated and had a lot of leftovers but that’s really not a problem, we had everyone over for lunch the next day! The first 3 courses were things I’d done before and the recipes are already on the site, I’ve linked to those. The last two courses were new ventures.
Here’s the menu with wine pairings:
Ahi Tartare ~ cucumber, basil, pine nuts, flat bread 1998 J. Lassalle, Premier Cru, Brut |
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Warm Chantrelle Salad ~ spinach, lentils, bacon, shallot vinaigrette 2005 Domaine Bizot,Vosne-Romanée Jachées |
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Butternut Squash Soup ~ walnut butter, marjoram-parsley-pecan pesto 2004 Châteauneuf du Pape, Vieux Télégraphe |
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Roasted New York Strip Loin (recipe below) ~ herb marinated, wilted frisée 2004 Quintessa, Rutherford Valley |
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Hazelnut Cake with Poached Pears 1986 Château d’Yquem, Sauternes |
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 The prep-work started the day before. I picked up the 14lb New York Strip Loin from my butcher (special ordered it earlier in the week). I cut the loin in half and then lengthwise so I had four, more manageable roasts. I chopped about 1 cup each of marjoram, thyme and parsley and covered all the roasts in the herbs and olive oil, covered them and refrigerated over night.

That’s pretty much all I could do the day before. I did actually make the walnut butter for the Butternut Squash Soup. (1 stick of butter, 1 1/2 walnuts…put it in the food processor until mixed. Wrap in saran wrap and refrigerate)
Saturday morning, 9am, I headed to the farmers market and the chaos of the day began. I picked up my special-ordered 5lbs of ahi…BEAUTIFUL! Along with the veggies, herbs and fruit I needed. Then I went to the local market to pick up what the farmer’s market didn’t have. Then it was back home to chop chop chop, slice slice slice, mix mix mix.
First thing I needed to get done and out of the way was the hazelnut cake. I’m not a baker, this is not my recipe. I used the recipe from The Paley’s Place Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from the Pacific Northwest which is a great cookbook and an excellent place to eat if you find yourself in Portland, OR. The cake was truly a breeze to make, hazelnuts, sugar, yogurt, eggs, vanilla, flour, etc.
 Once the cakes were out of the oven, I put in the squash to roast for the soup. Each had whole, unpeeled garlic cloves in the cavity and was rubbed with olive oil. They roasted at 350° for about 45-60 minutes. The soup recipe is spelled out well here already along with a picture of the finished soup which I forgot to take on Saturday night! Woops! I bailed on the brown butter sage that I usually put on the soup because I couldn’t fry up enough leaves for twenty people and have them all turn out crispy and nice so I chose to leave them off. The pesto and walnut butter provide plenty of flavor on their own. But I’d put the sage on the menu for everyone and they all thought the sage was in there! Power of suggestion! ;-)
 I was trying to have as much done in advance as I could. My kitchen is small, my stove is crappy and I had a long list (literally, I had a list taped to the cupboard so I wouldn’t forget any elements of the dishes!). Next up, cook the lentils for the Warm Chanterelle Salad. Easy peasy, 1 1/2 cups of chicken stock per 1 cup of lentils, a few peeled, smashed garlic cloves and simmer for 25 minutes. Voíla! Lentils done–one more thing off the list.
 Here I am hard at work chopping shallots for the salad vinaigrette with my dad looking on saying things like, “Wow, you’re not even cutting your fingers, I’m impressed!” Hehe. I put about 1/2 cup of shallots together with the juice of 4 big lemons and set that aside. I whisked the olive oil and salt in right before plating and tossed the spinach into it then.
 4:45pm rolls around and my handy-dandy list tells me to put the strip loin into the oven. I took them out of the refrigerator at 2pm to bring them up to room temperature. I put them in roasting pans and put them in the 450° oven for 15 minutes then reduced the temperature to 350° and waited for my thermometer to do its job. I put it in to the center of one of the roasts, set it to beep at 125° and moved along to the next project.
 Ding-dong, it’s 5pm, the guests are here!!
First course is ready to plate. I bought some round cookie cutters to use as molds for the ahi. I had assembled the dish earlier in the afternoon and it was ready to go in the fridge except for the lemon juice and salt which I added at the last minute so as not to have ceviche. Pack the ahi into the molds, remove the mold, top with micro-arugula, sprinkle with finishing salt, add flat bread crackers to the plate…course one is up! The table went silent with the first bite. Success! It paired beautifully with the champagne.
 Fire course two! I whisked the oil into the lemon-shallot mixture, tossed in the spinach and coated it well. On the plate went a bit of spinach, a spoonful of lentils, 2 slices of lovely grilled chanterelles, a smattering of bacon bits, some finishing salt and off to the table it went. Some of the comments about the salad were things like, “You disguised the meat on that salad as mushrooms amazingly well” (haha) and “The bacon added to the illusion of the meatiness” and “You made that dish up yourself?!” Hey…thanks I think?
Now here’s where photos get sparse. Things got crazy. As we were plating–bowling?–the soup, the thermometer beeped on the roast and I had to find a flat surface to let them rest! Oh, MAJOR dinner party tip: hire help! I hired a lovely lady friend to clean up after me. She did all the dishes as they were dirtied and she is my angel forever. I couldn’t have done it without her. She delivered to the table as I plated things, love her, love her.
Roasts come out of the oven, onto the cutting boards and get covered in foil to rest for a minimum of 20 minutes. Now, I don’t know how long they actually rested because time became a blur by this point. But however long it was they were PERFECT. Pink throughout but warm to the center. Tender as can be (which is good since I don’t own steak knives!), juicy juicy juicy. One thick slice per plate on top of some frisée and people were moaning with joy. My cousin told me that he hadn’t had beef that good since he was at Commander’s Palace in New Orleans years ago. People couldn’t stop raving about it. People are still calling me about it! I find it really funny since it’s the one dish that was a shot in the dark for me. I had only practiced it once with a small, 3lb loin and had no idea if it was going to work! I guess it did!
 We took a small intermission here to let the food settle, the wine mellow and it was time to cook the pears. Now, to be honest, I didn’t cook the pears. This is my husband’s signature dessert and I stay out of it. I know it was Bosc pears, peeled and cut with a apple corer. Those are put into a pan with brandy and port, honey (I picked up some amazing meadowfoam honey from the farmer’s market) and the secret ingredient is white truffle honey. There’s some cinnamon in there…not sure what else. I’ll have the wrangle the recipe from him. But the pears are cooked until soft and then removed from the pan and the sauce is reduced down to a thin syrup.
 On the plate went the hazelnut cake, topped with pears, drizzled with syrupy sauce and plopped with freshly whipped cream. Served with this was a 1986 Yquem. Wow…I mean…WOW! I’ve never had anything like this wine. It was a dessert in itself. Sweet, creamy, musty, fruity, minerally, heavenly. If you ever get the chance, you must experience this sauternes….and check out the cork!
 People were tipsy on the wine and the food. I truly accomplished my ultimate meal (so far). No one could believe I could produce that from my crappy little kitchen. I just kept saying, “Just think what I could do in a real kitchen!”
One thing I do know from this whole thing…I do not want to be a professional chef. I love to cook. I love food. I do not love standing and chopping for 12 hours at a stretch. I love the result. I love eating. I love making people happy with flavor. But I love it too much for it to be a career.
 Once the meal was over, people were wandering about the house. One relative went outside, came back in, the back door bumped the recycling bag and all the bottles of the evening went flying…IT’S A PARTY NOW!! Roars of cheers and laughter came out of that one.
If you’re wondering what to cook for your Christmas dinner (or any big dinner event), I highly recommend this menu. I’m not kidding when I say people are still talking about it. They’re calling me still blissful 2 days later! Make your family and friends happy, cook for them!
Posted in ahi tartare, beef, butternut squash, chanterelles, christmas, dinner, holiday, pears, recipe | 8 Comments »
Monday, November 30th, 2009
 As I pointed out in my last article, we were a bit late for porcini season this year. But not so late that we didn’t get any at all. We had a couple of beauties! On the first night we didn’t have the time or the materials for a barbecue so we just sautéed the porcini in a little olive oil and shallots and tossed it with some farfalle pasta. I’m a big fan of not doing much to the mushrooms and just enjoying their earthy flavors on their own.
 Day two however allowed for a trip to the store to pick up some mesquite for the barbecue. This is my favorite way to enjoy porcini. Once it was cleaned up, we just sliced it, basted it with olive oil and herbs and grilled to perfection. Once off the grill we squeezed a little bit of lemon juice and sprinkled a little bit of salt on them. Heaven!


We went back to one of our spots thinking we’d probably struck out but I stumbled upon two pretty little friends. The caps were destined for the dehydrator but the stalks were gorgeous grillers.

Having exhausted the porcini stash, we still had an insane number of chanterelles to consume. Along with Thanksgiving leftovers, we had chanterelles cooked in butter on toast. I felt a bit Top Chef-like serving chanterelles and bread two ways (on toast and in stuffing). ;-)

Day three — or was it day four — I decided to venture out into the chanterelle territory again. Who knew I missed a whole patch of them!? I had to think of another way to cook them. I thought, “I wonder if they grill well?” Since it’s my favorite way to eat porcini we decided to try it. It is now my favorite way to cook chanterelles too!!
If you have access to any of these lovely golden fungi, you must make this recipe.

Spinach tossed w/ dressing of: Chopped shallots Lemon juice Olive oil Salt & Pepper
Cook french green lentils in chicken stock w/ a clove of garlic
Slice each chanterelle and half, toss with olive oil and pepper and grill. I used 3 large mushrooms for 2 people.
Chop and cook bacon to make lovely little bacon bits.
Assemble into the most beautiful warm mushroom salad ever created. Spinach first, then lentils, the shroomies, then bacon, then love….love the whole time actually, including with every fabulous bite.
Posted in bacon, chanterelles, hardcore, pasta, porcinis, recipe, spinach | No Comments »
Monday, November 30th, 2009
We head up to Mendocino every Thanksgiving. We’ve been going up for about 10 years. The purpose of the trip is to crawl through the woods looking for fungus. Some years it’s quite successful. Other years, not so much.
 This year we were a bit late for the porcinis. we found a few to grill, and a few to dry, but the real star of this trip was the chanterelle. Day one brought us a basket full along with a couple of coccoras (a mushroom that still makes me nervous to eat!).
  I selected a handful of the chanterelles, cleaned and prepped them for wild mushroom stuffing. The recipe I used is based on this Bon Appétit recipe but I’ve modified it a bit. Firstly, it called for 1 pound of shiitake’s and 1 pound of button mushrooms… I had pounds of chanterelles in my fridge! I used about 2-3 pounds of the chanterelles. I put them in the skillet with a stick of butter. I let them cook for quite a while because they had a lot of moisture. I cooked almost all of that moisture away.
  Next I added the chopped leek and garlic and let that cook through for about five minutes.
 Once the leek was softened I added 2 cups of good white wine, a huge handful of rehydrated porcinis (from last year’s hunt) and about 1/4 cup of chopped thyme and marjoram from the garden. At this point I don’t think there’s much I cook without thyme and marjoram in it! The plants are out of control!!
 Once most of the wine had cooked off, I stirred the whole mixture into a 1lb package of bread cubes (unseasoned). I added the liquid I used to rehydrate the porcinis and then some extra chicken stock because it still seemed a little dry. I put the whole bit into a baking dish and baked it at 350° for about 45 minutes until the edges had some yummy crunchy bits.
  Meanwhile, I said we found some porcini right? We can’t forget about those! We sliced up the stalk, brushed it with some olive oil and grilled it on the Weber with mesquite wood.
 
Meanwhile meanwhile… I roasted a whole chicken in lieu of a turkey since 1: I’m allergic to turkey and 2: there were only three of us. It’s a foolproof excellent way to roast a chicken by the way. Take six pats of butter and wiggle them under the skin of the chicken breasts (three for each side). Then take chopped herbs… guess what I used? Yes, marjoram and thyme! Work those under the skin with the butter. Sprinkle the entire bird with salt and rub the entire outside with olive oil. Roasted at 400° for about 40 minutes until the internal temperature is 160°. I love my digital thermometer for this. I just put it in the chicken when I first put it in the oven, and set the alarm to beep when it hits 155° so I know I have a couple minutes left to finish the rest of the dinner prep.
 It was a very successful Thanksgiving endeavor. The final meal: roast chicken, wild mushroom stuffing, grilled porcini, Caesar salad and cranberry relish.
Posted in chanterelles, chicken, hardcore, porcinis, recipe | No Comments »
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