Archive for the ‘food’ Category

Pebble Beach Food and Wine – Not a Bad Sunday

Sunday, April 15th, 2012

Dom Perignon 2003

You really can’t knock starting a foggy spring Sunday morning with a glass of 2003 Dom Perignon. I don’t typically drink DP, unless it’s given to me. I don’t think it’s bad champagne by any means but it’s not what I tend to buy. 2003, if you recall, was the year that hundreds of people died in France from the crazy heat wave. The summer was scorching but the spring had unprecedented freezing temperatures. This did not treat grapes well. DP lost 70% of their Chardonnay. This is why I was so interested in attending this tasting. That and the description of the wine made me chuckle: “The intensity of this wine is unique and paradoxical, hovering between austerity and generosity.” I really wanted to try what hovering between austerity and generosity tasted like. Turns out it tastes like lovely champagne. Minerality, slight sweetness, quite enjoyable. I had a pleasant chat with the winemaker as well, lamenting my horrible experience in Paris and praising the French countryside.

The massive crowd

After finishing my glass of champagne and turning down a second, I made my way over to the Equestrian Center for the Lexus Grand Tasting. It was a huge, crowded tent full of who knows how many people, 200 wineries and 25 chefs. Along with some random Lexuses…Lexi…shiny cars…because, you know, when you’re drinking lots of wine, you should make decisions about car buying. There were also Fiji girls walking around handing out water, like old-school cigarette girls or umbrella girls at MotoGP. There were many face lifts and fashionable yet impossible to walk in heels. A lot of the Pebble Beach Food and Wine festival is too much Pebble Beach and not enough Food and Wine but that doesn’t mean that the food and wine that’s there isn’t great!

Fish and pickles

My first bite was from Michael Cimarusti from Providence in LA. Beautiful crispy-skinned fish with a plethora of pickled veggies. It was hard to get things together in one bite but all together the tart and tangy pickles with the mustard sauce and the perfectly cooked fish was a great plate of food. It was one of my favorite plates of the afternoon.

Bison Tartare and Duck confit

I then went next door to Gabriele Ask from Montage Beverly Hills. He had a bison ribeye tartare that absolutely loaded with truffles. I commented on that and he said, “Yes, we spent a lot of money!” I surely didn’t mind…oddly…since usually truffles are overwhelming for me but I very much enjoyed the tartare. He was also serving a duck confit with foie gras but I passed since foie is not for me. Everyone raved about it though.
Pig's Tail
My favorite plate of the day was the Pig’s Tail with herbs and fish sauce in gem lettuce served by Bryant Ng of The Spiced Table in LA. I didn’t even know you could eat the tail of a pig! I don’t picture there being much there. This was braised in slightly spicy, beautifully balanced sauce and had a generous amount of fish sauce but it wasn’t so much that it was offensive. It was a wonderfully composed dish. If you look at the picture, the things in the lower right corner…those are pig tails…mmmm…tail.

I saw Fabio Viviani by his table and I stopped by to say hello. I admit that I really love watching Top Chef and have since Season 2 when I discovered it. I saw Fabio at MotoGP at Laguna Seca a couple of years ago and could not figure out why I knew him for the longest time. I thought I actually personally knew the guy. I was convinced he worked with my husband or something and that I’d had a conversation with him because I could picture him laughing. No, I just watched him on TV so much I thought I knew him! I told him that; he was really nice.

Crispy Pork

I saw a table for Restaurant 1833 in Monterey and I’ve really been wanting to go there. It looks like such an interesting space and now I really want to try it. The dish Levi Mezick was presenting was a crispy pork with “BBQ” sauce which was more like a spicy mustard sauce. It was crispy, hot, spicy, tangy. My first bite from 1833 definitely moved the priority of getting a reservation there up.

I tried a few other dishes that were fine but not as good as the four I described so we’ll just move on to the few wines I dropped in on. The first was Almaviva. The lost grape. I was surprised to see them because I never see the bottles anywhere but my husband orders them from somewhere and I really love that wine. I had a taste of their ’09 and, although young, was drinking well and obviously could be put down for a few years.

I had to stop by Ridge. We’re members of their wine club and love almost everything they produce. I found it quite telling of the crowd there that they kept running out of Chardonnay. To be completely blunt, I don’t like Ridge for their white wine. To me they are all about Zin and their Petite Sirah is heavenly. Their big wine is the Monte Bello Cab blend. We have many bottles of that we won’t open for years. I wanted to get a peek at what I have waiting for me so I had the ’06 Monte Bello. Damn. That’s good. Can’t wait to open it! But I will. It will be even better later.

My last stop was for a glass of ’07 Alexander Valley Silver Oak Cab. I always love Silver Oak. They are consistently good and consistently not cheap. They were also pouring an ’07 Napa Valley Cab but from doing tastings at the winery I’ve found I prefer the Alexander. The other reason I picked it was because the Napa was in a fancier bottle and I went for the more austere…Oh, blending austerity and generosity! HA!

As I was leaving, there was a woman passing out free lettuce. She asked the gentleman in front of me, “Would you like some artisan lettuce to take with you?” He said, “What kind of lettuce?” She said, “Artisan lettuce.” He said, “You mean lettuce.” She said, “Artisan lettuce.” He said, “Does it grow in the dirt?” She said, “Yes.” He said, “Then it’s LETTUCE!” It was really funny and summed up the Pebble Beach portion of the event!

I had a nice time at this event and would love to attend on a press pass again but truly the Cayman Cookout spoiled me for any future food event. The intimacy of that gathering can’t be beat. Please send any donations to get me back to the Cayman Cookout next year to chantrelle@foodporn.com ;-)

Peanut Sauce Braised Chicken

Monday, April 9th, 2012

If you haven’t noticed, I’ve been on a bit of a braising kick. Maybe it’s because my Le Creuset French Oven doesn’t fit in my cabinet so it’s always staring at me from the stove top, beckoning to be filled with something yummy.

I didn’t have hours to let something braise so I cut up a chicken. I dug through the fridge and found enough to make a meal.

Cut the chicken into 8 pieces. I left the bones in the breast pieces. Brown chicken in a large, heavy, (oven-ready and lidded pot, like a dutch or french oven). Remove and set aside.

Add 1/2 c. mirin and and onion sliced into 1/2 moons, scrape up brown bits from the chicken to get all the flavor.

Let onion soften.

Add:
2 c. chicken stock
1/4 c. mirin
1 c peanut butter
3 chopped garlic cloves
2T honey

Bring to boil.

Add chicken back to pot.

Cover and bake at 325 for 45 min.

Remove chicken and reduce the sauce by about half. Stir in arugula off the heat, the sauce is plenty hot to wilt the greens. Stir in juice of 2 limes.

Serve over rice.

I was in a huge hurry plating and eating this though so no pictures this time! I’ll have to photograph it next time I make it which I’ll have to do pretty soon since my son LOVED the peanut sauce.

Cranberry Bean Soup

Thursday, March 22nd, 2012

I made this soup a couple of month ago for a Soup Night gathering at my house. I had vegetarian friends coming so I simmered veggies in water all morning to make really flavorful stock for the soup. I had some dried cranberry beans from the farmers market in the pantry just screaming to be used. I had also seen a cranberry bean soup recipe in Eric Ripert’s A Return to Cooking that ultimately inspired this one.

Today I’m taking soup to friends who just had a baby last week and they’re vegan. I thought this would be good to take them since it’s packed with protein and it’s freezable. But when I came onto the site to find my recipe, I hadn’t ever posted it! Hopefully I got all the ingredients right and this will be just as tasty as last time.

—–

Soak 3 cups dried cranberry beans for at least 4 hours.

Soaking Cranberry Beans

Sweat until soft:
1 onion, diced
1 fennel bulb, diced
2 medium leeks, chopped

Add:
3 cloves garlic, chopped

Sweating veggies

Cook on medium-low with the lid on for about 15 minutes (don’t let it brown, just soften)

Add 3 cups cranberry beans and 6 cups stock. I have used homemade veggie stock both times I’ve made this since it’s been for vegetarian or vegan friends but chicken stock would work just as well.

Bring it to a simmer and let it simmer for at least 2 hours or until the beans are soft.

Cranberry Bean Soup

Puree it all up into a lovely, creamy (without cream) soup.

Finish with a dollop of parsley-lemon puree and a drizzle of lemon oil and some crusty french bread.

Dumplings and Buns

Monday, March 19th, 2012
Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More

We were in Bookshop Santa Cruz on Sunday … after coming back downtown to pick up our car we’d left overnight after St. Patrick’s Day celebrations … and I can’t not browse the cookbook section. My husband came up behind me and handed me Asian Dumplings by Andrea Nguyen and all I said was, “Of course!” I decided that cookbook would bring us dinner that night. Slightly bad planning on my part since we should have started the dough about 2 hours earlier and the marinade the night before. But we did it anyway.

My husband was in charge of dough…Dough and I aren’t very good friends. Especially if the dough involves yeast…or rolling…especially both. So I got started on the Char Siu Pork and the pork filling for the dumplings.

I highly recommend getting this cookbook if you have any desire to make anything dumpling-like. I don’t follow recipes often anymore but I needed to in this case and for having never made dumplings before, Andrea made this really easy!

They weren’t the prettiest and the dough was a little thicker than it should have been. Next time I’ll roll it one more pasta-roller setting down. I went down to a 5 on my KitchenAid roller but I think I’d go to 6 next time.

Shanghai Pork Soup Dumplings

The pork buns turned out AMAZING!!!! I, regrettably, ate 3…then finished half of my son’s he didn’t eat. I could not move, I was so stuffed. The pork filling was so delicious though, I couldn’t stop. Anytime I stay in San Francisco, I wander over to the Ferry Building to get a pork bun (ok two pork buns) for breakfast at Out the Door. I crave them. Now I can make them!

Pork Buns

I think I’ll need to practice these very often…you know, to get them perfect, not because I’m a dumpling addict. I’m not. I can quit any time. I don’t think about Din Tai Fung in Sydney daily. I swear. I won’t sleep with this cookbook under my pillow either. Really.

Fishy Fries

Tuesday, March 13th, 2012

Smelt

I got an email from my fishmonger that they were going to have smelt at the Farmer’s Market. I was bummed, I couldn’t get to the farmer’s market that day. But, luckily, my local grocery fish counter gets fish from the same bay and they had it too! I can’t say enough how thankful I am to live in a place that can get such fresh seafood and produce year round.

I’d never cooked smelt. I wasn’t sure about the whole, “Fry it, head on, guts in and eat it whole” idea but I never should have questioned it!

They were like little fish french fries. I dredged them in a combination of semolina flour and marjoram and fried them in 350° oil until they were browned and then I dipped them in white wine vinegar w/ minced shallots to eat them.

YUM!

Manresa – Revisited

Monday, March 12th, 2012

The alphabetical menu

If…I mean when…you go to Manresa, because you should, you’ll get two menus. One is a normal menu with dishes listed with ingredients. The other is an alphabetical list of ingredients for the “seasonal and spontaneous” chef’s tasting menu. You won’t know what will be together, in what dish, in what order, but you will know the general items that will be appearing on your plate over the course of the evening.

My husband’s evening started with a roasted red bell pepper pate de fruit with an olive madeleine. That was not for me given that bell peppers and olives are two things I detest but they knew that…I gave them my card! :)

Mint sorbet and lavender soda

The first thing I got was a mint sorbet in a lavender gelato. It was pretty, it was flavorful but those two flavors for me are gum and soap. It was beautifully executed and I ate/drank the whole thing…all the while saying, “Hmm…gum and soap.” This was not a miss in my book, just my weirdness.

Abalone with local milk panna cotta

The highlight of the whole dinner, the dish that still has us talking about it, was the Abalone with local milk panna cotta, abalone gelee and radish. I am not a fan of the texture of a huge blob of panna cotta but this was a thin, amazing layer, with a thin amazing layer of gelee (another thing I’m not typically wowed by) and crunchy, thin radishes and delicious thin slices of abalone. It was beautiful, creamy, salty, I wanted to order it for dessert.

Black radish

The black radishes with savory granola were served on this gorgeous, wavy plate that had me chasing the dish around these little grooves but I’m not ashamed to used my fingers to mop up the last of the luscious saucy goodness. The granola in this had us longing for it the next morning. I hate sweet granola but I’m thinking maybe I should try my hand at making some savory instead!

Scallop, asparagus, scallop chip

A few years ago, every time I would eat a scallop, all I could taste was a metallic flavor. Like chomping into a piece of tin foil. Logically, that got me to stop ordering or cooking scallops and they used to be a favorite of mine. The only scallops I’ve had that I’ve enjoyed since then were raw at fancy sushi bars. That is until Saturday night. This one had that buttery flavor and caramelly sear that I so remembered and didn’t think I’d enjoy again. Along with the scallop were gorgeous pieces of asparagus (it must be Spring!!) and a scallop chip that I wanted a whole dish of.

Slow poached egg, sweet onion soup

Another dish that completely surprised me that I truly enjoyed was the slow-poached egg with toasted brioche and sweet onion soup. Runny eggs aren’t my thing but when added to a soup with the same or similar texture, the yolk just added a … not a depth of flavor, something else that means that!…to it…a richness…destination: another level. Now I understand why people like runny yolks! They’re quite sumptuous.

Black cod, black truffle, black trumpet

Black cod, aka Sablefish or Butterfish, is one of my favorite local delicacies. David layered every local “black” ingredient: Black cod, black truffle, black trumpet. Earthy and beautiful.

Duck

For the next course, the item on the menu was pork belly with blood sausage. I couldn’t do it…I might be able to do a blind tasting of blood sausage but I haven’t gotten to a point that I can knowingly dive into that yet…give me time, I’ll get there. My husband had it and said it was great. Instead I had duck with farro and was not at all disappointed in my substitution! The flavors were amazing. I do however like more fat rendered out and a crispier skin on my duck. Still, I enjoyed the course.

Spring lamb, roasted garlic

I’ve always liked the “What grows together, goes together” saying but that goes right out the window when you get Lamb with seaweed. Who knew?! Well, this surfer chef did. Maybe inspired by a beach barbecue? I don’t know. But the combination of lamb, seaweed, roasted garlic and charred green onions was great.

Cheese plate

The cheese course came around which I obviously skipped but my husband picked out four and was struck dumb by the combination of Pim‘s marmalade and the roquefort cheese. He just kept pointing and saying, “That…..that…”

Candy cap ice cream, sunchoke chips

You may know that I am a huge fan of candy cap mushrooms. They’re maple goodness makes for the best cookies and ice cream. What I did not know what that you could pair candy cap ice cream with sunchokes (which are in my opinion bitterly vile things) and have it be such a magical combination. The sunchoke chips were bitter, salty and crunchy. The ice cream was rich and creamy, the doughnut hole (sure it had a fancy name, but it was a doughnut hole) was sweet and yeasty. A bite with all three components hit every sensory part of the tongue. Each component made stronger by the presence of the others.
Wines
Our waitress, Amanda I believe, was fun and accomodating and would have been as formal as we wanted her to be but of course we don’t go for that. The sommelier got the premier pairings spot on. He even helped me decipher a flavor I was getting in one of the wines that was driving me absolutely crazy because I couldn’t pinpoint it. We finally decided it was chervil and I’m sticking with that so I don’t go insane trying to figure it out. The general manager, Bobi, came and chatted with us for a while. We’ll be taking the same class from Pim in a couple of months. He was an excellent host. And Pim tipped David off that we were coming so he graciously came out to our table and talked with us a bit. We got to rave about the abalone and prod him about going to the Cayman Cookout next year. I hope it happens! We need some Bay Area representation there.

We’re looking at our calendars to plan our next dinner there. We need to hit another season, we did Spring last trip there too…oops! Summer next!

Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder

Saturday, March 10th, 2012

Slow roasted pork

My CSA farm this year is Fogline Farm. We went there last year for an Outstanding in the Field dinner, had the honor of sitting with the farmers at dinner and decided we’d join their CSA next. I’ve been hopping from farm to farm each year, trying out all the variety in our county. One of the beautiful things about Fogline is they also raise Berkshire pigs. The CSA hasn’t started up yet but they are at the farmers’ market with beautiful cuts of pork. This week I picked up a nice 2lb-ish pork shoulder and tried cooking that for the first time. Man, did it work out. It was so amazingly good….and easy.

Browned pork on both sides

The only thing you need is time. This cooked for about 3 1/2 hours.

First, generously salt and brown the pork, on both sides over high heat, in a heavy bottomed pan that has a cover and can go in the oven.

Onion, garlic, marjoram, thyme

Remove the pork and add a sliced onion, a good amount of herbs…I, of course, used marjoram and thyme…6 roughly chopped cloves of garlic. Stir that around a bit but it doesn’t need to soften or anything.

Put the pork back in atop the onion mixture.

Add 2 cups red wine (something good enough to drink, this will be your sauce too) and 2 cups chicken stock.

Pork, onion, garlic, thyme, marjoram, wine, chicken stock

Cover and put in a 350° oven for 3 hours or more. I checked the meat at 2 1/2 hours, added a touch more wine and stock and turned the meat over. Then let it roast another hour.

After the pork is to a fall-apart tender stage, take it out of the pan and cover it with foil.

Carefully strain the liquid out of the pan into a saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce it to almost half. Stir in fresh parsley.

I put this over israeli couscous…I wanted orzo but didn’t have any…and I do think it’s disturbing to serve pork over israeli couscous–so sorry. It’s what I had!

Anyway, choose your grain or starch you prefer. Spoon some of the wine reduction over it. Shred the pork and put that on top.

Serve with either the wine you braised the pork in or another good, hearty, rustic wine.


  • 2 – 2 1/2 lb pork shoulder
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • 6 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  • handful of herbs
  • 2 cups red wine
  • 2 cups chicken stock

Preparation time: 10 minute(s)

Cooking time: 3 hour(s) 30 minute(s)

Ancho Chile Chicken Soft Tacos

Tuesday, March 6th, 2012

Ancho Chile Chicken Tacos

After writing this up, I discovered I already put this recipe up but I’d used fish! Well, I changed it very slightly but I guess that means I really like this one!

4 rehydrated ancho chiles (save the liquid)
1 small yellow onion
3 cloves garlic
2 T white wine vinegar
salt

Blend everything in the list together in the blender along with some of the rehydrating liquid to thin it out and make it into a saucy marinade.

Cut chicken breasts up into 1-2″ pieces and put them into the ancho paste. Leave it in there as long as you have. I had about an hour.

In the meantime, make some rice, heat up some black beans, make some guacamole (avocado, grated onion, lots of lemon juice, a dash of cayenne and salt).

Cook the chicken in a pan over medium heat until the chicken is cooked through.

To serve, warm some tortillas, and put the chicken, guacamole, some salsa and a bit of cilantro in them. Beans and rice on the side.

Don’t forget the margaritas!!

Miso-Glazed Cod with Sushi Rice Arancini and Wilted Arugula

Wednesday, February 29th, 2012

Japan met Italy in my kitchen tonight. I got black cod from my CSS (Community Supported Seafood), my weekly seafood CSA. I was in the mood for something japanese-y.

I found this recipe for miso-glazed cod. I used the marinade (1/4 c mirin, 1/4 c sake, 3t sugar, 4T miso) and let my cod marinate in that for about an hour.

In the meantime I dug around my kitchen to see what I should serve with the fish. I decided to make some sushi rice and make arancini out of that. Once the rice was cooked, I added seasoned rice vinegar, a little soy sauce, some minced green onion and some parsley…mostly because I have a cubic yard of parsley from my dad’s garden right now. I shaped the rice into balls and fried them in 300° grapeseed oil until they were brown.

I also have a 1/2 cubic yard of arugula from my dad so I wilted that in a pan with some garlic and olive oil.

I grilled the cod on the barbecue for about 5 minutes on one side then about 2 minutes on the other.

To serve I put the arugula, then three of the rice balls, balanced the cod on top and put some grated daikon on top of the fish.

For a complete experiment, I’d say this was a huge win.

Green Curry Ceviche

Tuesday, February 21st, 2012

Green Curry Ceviche
When we were at the Cayman Cookout we had a really yummy Green Curry Ceviche made by Laurent Gras. It was light and refreshing, a little spicy, tangy and just perfect.

Today I got Ono (aka Wahoo) from my Seafood CSA and immediately wanted to make something that would take me back to the Caymans. This dish was the first to my mind. I didn’t really remember what went into it though so, as usual, I improvised and it really worked!

  • 1 cup coconut water
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1 small shallot
  • 1 stalk lemongrass, chopped
  • juice of 2 limes
  • 1 jalapeno or similar chile
  • 2 t cumin
  • 1 t coriander
  • handful of cilantro
  • salt
  • 1 lb wahoo/ono
  • 1 avocado
  • 1 japanese cucumber
  1. Blend everything (except fish, avocado and cucumber) in a blender until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh strainer.
  2. Dice fish. Dice avocado. Dice cucumber.
  3. Put the diced everything in a bowl and pour the coconut green curry liquid over the fish mixture. Finish with a good salt. Since I was being nostalgic, I used the Cayman Island salt we brought home!
  4. Enjoy!

Preparation time: 10 minutes

I served this with some thinly sliced, toasted pugliese and sake. It wasn’t Laurent Gras’ but I will sure make this again!