Archive for the ‘Michael Mina’ Category

Michael Mina – San Francisco

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Michael Mina
Westin St. Francis
335 Powell St
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-397-9222

After the great meal we had at Michael Mina Vegas, knowing the San Francisco restaurant was rumored to be even better, I was very much looking forward to the meal. We decided before we even arrived that we would most likely do the seasonal tasting menu. Luckily it was perfectly laid out for us with the “or” choices on just the right dishes.

Course one was Grilled Japanese Kanburi (tatsoi, Asian pear, ginger vinaigrette). This was amazing. The fish was perfectly cooked. The savory and sweet had an absolute perfect balance. It was a wonderful start. The wine pairing did not start well though. There is this trend that we’ve been experiencing with the chef’s tastings and pairings of sweet, fruity wines served with Asian flavored dishes. This one was a Spanish Moscatel Seco (2007 Jorge Ordonez Botani) that was full of pineapple and mango. It was dry but had a coy sweetness from the tropical fruit flavors. This would be a good hot day quaffing wine, but did not pair with the food.

The next dish was one I thought I would love but it ended up being my least favorite of the evening: Extra Virgin Olive Oil-poached Wild Sturgeon (pickled cabbage, pumpernickel panade, dijon emulsion). It was an interesting flavor combination but the mustard overwhelmed everything else and, combined with the pickled cabbage, reminded me of a hot dog! “I’ll have the sturgeon with mustard and kraut please!”

I’m not usually a fan of squab. I mean, really, it’s pigeon! Why the fancy name? Anyway, WOW! It was practically rare, but a tender, perfect texture, not at all squab-like. It wasn’t stringy or gamey although it was intensely smoky. Luckily, the sommelier paired this one with a Pinot Noir (2006 Whetstone Pinot Noir, Jon Boat) that cut through the smoke.

Michael Mina isn’t immune to the influence of the Kobe trend. They have added a great twist to it though: “Thai Beef Salad” (grilled little gems, serrano peppers, green curry). The beef was tender, the curry had some heat and, unpredictably, this was our favorite dish of the evening. The other surprise was that the 2007 Celebration Gamay Noir (Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon) worked so well. Red wine with beef, sure, of course! Red wine with spicy serrano, Thai curry… what? It was awesome.

The Apple Tarte Tatin (Burnt cinnamon ice cream, cider foam, toffee) for dessert was spiced and sweet and tart cinnamony. The 2003 Tokaji brought out a brown sugar in the dish which made it a very good pairing. There was an extra little bite that came out, a sort of s’more gelée. I don’t tend to like the textures gelées and foams but this little bite was so intensely S’MORE! Great finish to the meal.

We had a lovely time — oh, and this was my birthday dinner so they wrote “Happy Birthday” on my Tarte Tatin plate in chocolate… cute!

I’m looking forward to my next opportunity to return to Michael Mina. It’s an extravagant meal but there’s nothing wrong with that if the dishes deliver and these sure did.

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Michael Mina – Las Vegas

Monday, January 19th, 2009

Bellagio
3600 Las Vegas Blvd.
South Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-693-7223.

I’ve had the opportunity to not only eat at one Michael Mina, but two. The first was in Las Vegas and we were impressed, although we were still being subjected to “Vegas people.” They are not our people. The sommelier and waiter were actually quite appreciative of the fact the we were foodies and interested in the details of both the food and the wine.

For the Vegas meal we went with the cookbook tasting. I thought these would be the dishes that have had any kinks worked out and were really the best they could be. It of course had Mina’s signature Ahi Tartare that he brought with him from Aqua. I was disappointed with the dish at Aqua years ago, there was too much heat and the fish was lost. I’m happy to say that problem has been corrected and the flavor balance is perfect. I do however think they need to evaluate their bread choice. The toast points have the taste and texture of a sliced white sandwich bread. I found the wine pairing I challenge: 2005 Schloss Johannesburg Riesling. The sesame flavors in the tartare really clashed for me. I’d rather have had champagne or any very crisp, white wine.

The lobster pot pie could have been really good but missed on a few points. The first was that it was very hard to eat. It was served in a small pot which made it geometrically impossible to cut up the chunk of lobster inside. The second was that it had button mushrooms in it… lobster is worthy of a fungus better than a button.

The highlight of the meal by far was the Miso-glazed Black Cod with shiitake consommé, shrimp and scallop raviolini. The fish, bok choy, mushrooms and accompanying ravioli were all perfectly cooked and at the perfect temperature to eat all while floating in broth. A near impossible task in my book. we had a lovely not sweet, not sharp sake: Takasago Junmai Daigingo “Diving Droplets” sake. Very much recommended. The recipe for the dish is on page 203 of Michael Mina’s cookbook, I’m sure it’s a snap!

The dessert course was a trio of root beer float, chocolate chip cookies, and Valrhona chocolate ice cream and mousse. The root beer float was a challenge with any wine or aperitif (the artichoke of desserts) but it was still a good float! The whole dessert plate was fancified comfort sweets.

If I find myself back in Vegas, which I don’t plan to for a very long time, I will go back to Michael Mina. But given that I’m an hour and a half from San Francisco, I’d rather just pop in on that one again and not have to deal with the neon.

Posted in Las Vegas, Michael Mina, table dance, tasting menu | No Comments »