Archive for the ‘Recchiuti’ Category

Recchiuti and Magnolia Brewery – Beer and Chocolate Taste Project

Sunday, September 20th, 2009

This was my second Recchiuti Taste Project event. The first was the Salt and Chocolate tasting which inspired many dishes and a shopping spree at The Meadow in Portland. The beer tasting was really for my husband who is the alchemist behind the Barely Legal brews. Of course, I enjoy the end product, he enjoys the process and the science. The brewer sharing the “stage” with Michael Recchiuti was Dave McLean of Magnolia Brewery in San Francisco.

We sat down to a plate containing three small cups and a ramekin. The cups each had malt in various stages of roast. The ramekin had one of the toasty malts covered in chocolate, slowly coated until it was equal parts malt and chocolate. Sitting in that with a 64% Valrhona chocolate disc sprinkled with some toasted Maris Otter malt. Barley is such a wonderful grain. It’s complex; it can be sweet, the more you chew it the more sugar you can extract. It gives us everything from barley soup to beer to malted milk balls. So when you think about it, pairing beer with chocolate isn’t odd. People have been drinking malts for decades and that’s just refined barley mixed with some chocolate ice cream!

Dave and Michael took us through the brewing process while we were nibbling on chocolate covered malt and watching a video loop on the wall that showed the brewery in action. The grain being milled, added to the boil, all the way up to pouring pints at the brew pub. The grain, post-mash, is still great for compost or animal feed so they try to get farmers to come take it. I got the impression that’s a challenge in the city. Any farmers out there who want grain and can pick it up may want to contact their local breweries, they may have a rich, healthy feed source!

Up next was wort soda. This probably was crazy-weird to many people, but wasn’t overly complex or unusual to someone who has had unfermented wort a number of times! It was bubbly, cold, malty soda. It was a dark malt so it was almost coffee-like and a little bit bitter (like black coffee). What was crazy-weird was the malt-foam cube marshmallowy thing. It was, let’s say, interesting!

We then moseyed into the kitchen for a little tour and treat. We saw the cooling tunnel that takes the chocolate through a trip at temperatures from 58° to 62° to 71° so it comes out at room temperature. We weren’t waiting for ganache to cure, we got fresh chocolate. Michael had cooked down the hopped wort and added white chocolate — not the crap you get from the mass-produced chocolate factories. Pure, real,un-deodorized El Rey cocoa butter. He coated this mixture with chocolate right in front of our eyes, a beautiful thing. As these set (this only took seconds) we tried the unfermented hopped wort from Oatmeal Stout and Kolsch. Both were obviously headed toward being stellar beers. And then we got to eat the fresh chocolate. This was insanely good. These could never be produced to sell because the high water content of the filling gives it a shelf life of about three days. This was my favorite taste of the day. Rich, creamy, unique… WOW!

Now comes the part that you can enjoy as well. Get a box of Recchiuti chocolates and head to Magnolia brewpub. Time for the chocolate-beer pairings flight!

#1: Blue Bell Bitter with Candied Orange Peel
Who knew? The Maris Otter malt in this beer has a citrusy aspect to it so the orange worked so well! The bitterness matched up and the confection enhanced the orange peel flavor in the beer.

#2: Spud’s Boy IPA with Star Anise and Pink Peppercorn
This was a dud for me. I don’t particularly like IPA and I don’t like anise. The beer quote of the day came from discussing the IPA though. Dave said, “Beer doesn’t have to be pale, yellow and insipid.” YES!


#3: Big Cypress Brown Ale with Burnt Caramel

Both the beer and chocolate are toasty (the burnt caramel is made with sugar that’s been brought to 420°!) The chocolate emphasized the bitterness in the beer that didn’t stand out without chocolate. This was a perfect pairing.

Are you on your way to Magnolia with your black box yet?

We got to try an Imperial Stout out of Dave’s stash that was made in 2007. Imperials really improve with age. Michael made an incredible devil’s food cake with a white chocolate ganache on top. The beer was light in alcohol but rich and caramely with the cake. And then there was the gelée. I’m not a gelée and foam gal. This was also a case of what David and Michael called “illusion of food” because you taste with your eyes first. The appearance affects your expectations. The gelée looked like a little piece of chocolate, it was most definitely not. It was hoppy and bitter and, well, gelée-like. I hate that texture. This was not for me… the cake was though!!

For dessert (heh) we had a float made with malted 64% Valrhona ice cream and Dark Mild beer. Who needs root beer? Glug, glug, mmmmmmmmm. This ice cream… holy my gosh. Seriously, I’ve never had chocolate ice cream that creamy, rich and amazing. When’s that next ice cream social?

I’d say I can’t wait until the next Taste Project event but I don’t have to. I’ll be heading to the Acme Bread and chocolate event in less than two weeks! For those of you who still think you’ve had good chocolate but have never had Recchiuti, you are fooling yourselves. Order some! You will love me forever for it.

Recchiuti Salt and Chocolate Tasting

Sunday, May 31st, 2009


The second I saw the notice about this salt and chocolate event, I signed up. I think those two things work so magically well together, I even dreamed of them when I was pregnant with my son. That’s how I came to know about Recchiuti’s Fleur de Sel caramel chocolates. I had a dream about having salted chocolate, got out of bed, Googled salt and chocolate and found Recchiuti’s site. Two great things that taste great together. This class was a collaboration between Michael Recchiuti and Mark Bitterman. Both love to talk and played hysterically off of each other.

We started the event in the hallway outside of the Recchiuti kitchens with a drink that was a bit of a spin on a Bloody Mary. It is a blend of apricots, celery, and radish with Schramsberg Blanc de Noir. They weren’t shy with the champagne!! The combination worked really well, the celery added a savoriness that cut the sweetness of the apricot. It was a bit of a challenge to drink at first with the chocolate swizzle stick-like thing in it but we all managed! The chocolate was sprinkled with Murray River salt from Australia which we discovered and fell in love with when we were in Sydney, brought back a few bags for us and family and then not long ago found it at Stonehouse olive oil. Turns out we weren’t the only ones to love it.


Next we filed into the tasting room via a Himalayan salt block that was sitting on a hot plate heating it to 120° topped with a large block of 65% Sur de Lago chocolate. Grab a graham cracker, scoop up some melty chocolate and enjoy! The salt block thing absolutely fascinated me. Like I really needed another reason to love salt, the idea of cooking on salt itself (not encasing something in salt but using the salt as the frying pan!) is amazing. You can heat these blocks to 500° and seer your scallops on them and get this amazing caramelization process happening. You can freeze the ones that have been made into bowls and use them to make ice cream. These salt blocks are around 600,000 years old. Mark explained that when you taste the salt you were really tasting the ocean from the time before plants existed on Earth!

When the Tarte Tatin on the menu was brought to us it was topped by this beautiful nest of spun sugar and suspended in the sugar was a deep-sea harvested Japanese salt. Truly an enjoyable dish. Really you can’t go wrong with apples, caramel and salt (well, some can, but these guys can’t!)


The “Palette” cleanser (cute little play on words) was something that I would buy given the chance. A disc of single origin “Ocumare” dark chocolate topped with three caramelized and buttery pistachios, minced rosemary and roasted Korean bamboo salt. The salt is roasted in a bamboo canister in a furnace upwards of 1000°. This particular one was roasted three times and wasn’t overly funky or sulfuric. Apparently the nine times roasted becomes quite intense in a use-it-in parts-per-million sort of way.

Our frosty beverage was a chocolate milk that I could enjoy anytime. It was malted with a roasted barley malt, not too rich, not too creamy and the glass was rimmed with ground and sifted cocoa nib powder mixed with Iburi Jio Cherry Salt. It was another deep sea harvested and evaporated salt that was then roasted with cherry wood which gave it a very distinct flavor. It works beautifully with the nibs. It didn’t step on the subtle chocolate flavors, it just enhanced them.

At this point we all got up to take a tour of the kitchen. Michael’s got a lot of cool, fancy toys. The Windows XP-controlled squirter, the long conveyor belt cooler, the walk-in hot room that keeps the chocolate melted at 120°, and a giant copper pot full of boiling water to clean the floor (oh, and the giant pot also used for making caramel!). I’d love to be in there during production.


We returned to our tables that had been set up with a flight of six artisan salt caramels. From left to right it was a square of caramel, a square of chocolate covered caramel, and six squares of chocolate covered caramel each with a different salt sprinkled on top. Number 1, Pangasinan salt which is a fleur de sel very similar to what Michael uses regularly in his caramels. Number 2, Kona salt, similar to #1 but a fresher, lighter mouth feel. Number 3, Cypruss Silver flake salt was more intense because of it’s more geometric shapes. Number 4, Amabito No Moshio (aka algae salt) tasted a lot like iodized, table salt but without chemical aspects that table salt has. It does have a very high iodine level. Number 5, oak smoked salt that was not subtle on the oak flavors. It was like licking a salty barrel! And number 6 was my favorite with the caramels, Shinkai Deep Sea Salt.


We finished with an incredibly rich, creamy ice cream with Stonehouse olive oil drizzled on top making it even more rich and creamy. To sprinkle on top of that Mark provided a Haleakala Ruby salt and, as good as the ice cream was, I don’t think I could eat it without the salt. It was so rich, but not overly sweet, the salt really sliced right through all that fat and made it a wonderful closer to the tasting.

I’ve been a fan of Recchiuti for many, many years. I get the gift club subscription for Christmas every year. Every time we’re in San Francisco and we can make it to the Ferry Building we stock up and, if we can’t, we order from the website for any holiday we can come up with to give each other chocolates. Now I’ll have another site to frequent and somewhere else to visit when I’m in Portland: The Meadow. Michael and the entire Recchiuti staff and family were wonderful hosts. This only increased my love and hopefully their fanbase.